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Variable valve Timing and Electronic lift Control. It's a little system Honda developed (which everyone else copied) which lets the engine get good fuel economy at low RPMs and power at high RPMs. You can search around on YouTube and find videos of how it works.Quote:
Originally Posted by ExAm
Nice! I'm thinking about getting a 1994 Chevy S10. It has 160,000 on it for $1800. I can probably talk the price down, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Llama Juice
My TD05H (14b) turbo charger is brand new, and right now I push 11.3psi, however the engine with it's stock fuel system can handle 16psi. And for your information, the gauges are there so I don't ruin my engine tyvm. I have all forged internals, stock, and my engine has been known to hold up to 22psi on the stock block/pistons/rods/crank. :realsmug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Xetsuei
And, I'm actually downgrading the size of my turbo it spools faster, and I can turn up the pressure. :eng101: And also, I don't know where you heard you loose 50hp in the awd system, but I'm sure it's not that much. These cars have been known to push 400hp on just a turbo/injector/fuel upgrade, and still be street legal and daily drivers.
After just about $1500 (if you do it right) these cars will dominate. :woop:
This car has about $800 invested into it, I'd say. Parts are cheap, and easy to come by. And before you go about saying that this isn't my car, or doesn't look like mine, :words: the engine in the 2g are actually weaker.
All I can say is, I won't believe it until I see it. And yes, you are a ricer. Taking a 4banger Japanese car and putting useless things on it, that's ricing. And why would you ruin your engine if it's forged? You really don't need gauges, or at least you could be tasteful and modify them into the dash. And would you mind showing some proof your engine can hold 22psi stock? I'd also like to know once again where you got the 300hp figure. And you still have to figure in the drivetrain once again, will it even be able to handle the power?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalub
And are you blind? Do you know what drivetrain loss is? The most efficient system AWD system I've seen is in the Nissan GT-R which is about a 50hp loss, I'm guessing your car has upwards of 80-100hp loss. RWD drivetrains have less loss of power because there are less parts the power has to be transmitted through. I'd also like to know, once again, where you find these cars having 400hp, or where you got that price number. :v:
And FYI, in that last video that isn't actually a Mustang GT. You see the the thing between the front wheel arch and the door? It's a Mustang horse, which is only on V6 models. The GT models have GT instead of the horse.
Who said I wouldn't mold my guages or mount them properly? I'm no ricer, they aren't for aesthetics. I have three guages, boost, a/f, and egt. They all play a very important part in monitoring my engine. If you don't know why I would want them, need the, or even install them I suggest you look into it. And second of all, my car is a friggin' domestic. :maddowns:
Also, here is a stock 7-bolt 4g63 (the weak ones) running 22psi on pumpgas
And here is one with ~400hp on the stock block/internals
You can see that these cars are very chugged and chained to the ground stock. They have an immense room for improvement with little cash/effort involved. And as for drivetrain loss, I can say it isn't that much. Sure mine, compared to a standard rwd/fwd drive train is heavier and harder to move, but sure as hell doesn't lose 80-100hp. It's more or less around 10-15% of what ever is at the flywheel (Hell maybe less). However, I, nor you will ever know so it can't be that big of a deal.
I can however tell you that, my awd, is capable of 300-400hp stock before you'd want to look into another strictly racing setup. The thing is pretty durable. The thing that takes the most beating is the pressure plate.
(I got the numbers from this guy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQKO4Hceu3o he races professionally and he lives in Boise, Idaho. I've spoken to him face to face and even ridin' in his cars. I know what I'm saying)
Domestic with a Japanese engine, and yes the gauges ricers buy don't exactly display nothing. You honestly do not need those gauges, they're just stupid. Why is it important? Sure it's interesting to see how much boost the turbos are making, but at the cost you'll be a ricer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalub
And why are the 7 bolt ones weak? As far as I can tell, the 7 bolt is just a more responsive engine. Why is it weaker? Why would they make the newer engine weaker? It makes no sense. All of the videos you posted are of the newer, better engine, so you think your engine will somehow get more because you think the newer engines are weaker? That makes absolutely no sense.
And no, your car won't even get close to as low as a 10% loss. It's probably somewhere above a 15% loss. But no it is a big deal, since you're thinking you will be making upwards of 350hp at the crank I honestly don't believe it.
And bullshit, "Oh yeah this guy told me everything and I remember it all." Give me an actual source of proof to where you're getting these numbers for YOUR engine. I don't care if you've spoken to him or rode in his cars, unless you have a recording of him saying it or something, bullshit.
But anyway, I might as well do some bragging on how much horsepower I could get out of my block.
There are some people who have bored the block out and gotten up to 900hp out of it, but that's not the stock 4.6L so I figured I wouldn't post them. I'm not going for much on my Mustang, probably just a little upwards of 450hp. But again the biggest thing I have to do is change out the rear end gears, then I'll be set. Then I can do suspension modifications, lighten the car, and get a real manual gearbox.
Actually it's very important to know how much boost I'm putting into my engine, and if it is spiking, or dropping. And an aid to fuel ratio guage is important too, have you ever seen what happens when you go lean in a boosted engine? Temps rise and shit starts to melt. EGT is to measure the exhaust temperature of my 1st or 4th cylinder. Here is a scenario.
(It helps if you know how combustion works, and how a turbocharger works)
Say, I'm driving and I'm boosting at 15psi. Say the boost spikes to 22psi, now my car just can't compensate the fuel that would be needed to compensate for that much air, thus I go lean. My engine is now detonating before TDC, extreme pressure and force is put on the piston head, connecting rods, and crankshaft. (Sometimes Valves aswell) Also as a result of going lean my fuel is combusting at higher temps than it should be, and my engine literally starts to melt.
http://www.jagweb.com/aj6eng/failed_piston.jpg
My engine is very important to me, thus I have the tools to monitor it and keep it running smoothly. There is nothing rice about it, I don't add them to be Joe Cool, I add them to see what's happening to my engine. :cop:
ANOTHER THING, the 7 bolt engines if I recall correctly are weaker, they have a problem with the crankshaft "walking" into the crank case or crank angle sensor. It happens to all cars, but this engine model has seen it the worst, and thus most people try to opt for an older 6 bolt. It has less connecting bolts, but it is stronger, and slightly heavier.
And my engine is one of a 50-thousand. They can acheive the numbers on the stock block and internals. All you asked for me to show you, and I did. I have no intention of that level of modding to my vehicle. However, my engine with these few mods and bolt-ons will push 300awhp. Stock. You can go ahead and take a read around any forums or discussion board that these cars are talked on. They are known to go fast for cheap.
Oh, and my sources not only come from first hand, but from countless hours of research and reading. Might I reccommend you to a few:
dsmtuners.com
dsmtalk.com
Eitherway great arguement, and potential only increases with how much money you push into it. I'm not sure what the fastest 1/4 in a Mustang is with it's stock engine (block atleast :P) but John Shepard did like 7.something in his Talon.
Yes, but if the absurd situation you tell us happens ACTUALLY happens then you would have no way of stopping it, rendering the gauges useless. The only one I can actually think of any use is the turbo boost because you're changing the boost on your engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalub
And again, I didn't ask how or why I asked WHERE did you get the information that the engine is weaker. I'm not going to sift through loads of bullshit for no reason, provide me the complete link.
And no, you didn't show me. You showed me an engine that ISN'T yours achieving numbers that you think your engine can. Once again, I will not shift through loads of bullshit myself to find things that you might be making up.
And no, Mustangs aren't exactly expensive either. The total money plus the car itself I've spent to far is $3k, the car has about 100k miles on it and the previous owner has never had a single problem with it.
And really, again, I would prefer to not do hours of research and reading on a car I don't like. Since you probably know those sites front and back, it shouldn't be hard for you to provide the information I am asking for.
7 seconds? In his talon? Ugh. Proof, thanks. He probably isn't even using the same engine, or drivetrain that comes stock, not even close. I can put a 427 in a Mustang and put slicks on it and get a 7, but that doesn't even matter. We're talking about the cars with factory engines.
And it's convenient you didn't bother commenting on how much horsepower Mustang engines can put out, LOL. There is no replacement for displacement friend.
"yo guys chek dis shit out, got me some boost gauges better turbos n shit on mah 4banger gonna smoke all those fags n their mustangs heh."
E: I'm not going to continue this if you just keep making things up, it's wasting too much of my time. We all know how much you hate Mustangs and how much you think Talons are better than them, whoop de doo.
E2: And you also managed to stray WAY off topic about my car vs yours. So yes, what are the best 0-60 and 1/4 mile times have you gotten?
No.
I'm too lazy.
I told you where to find it, and that's good enough for me.
And say you see your car detonate you can always calm your shit, drive home, retune it or check your boost controller and try to prevent it from happening. The serve a purpose, just like a Tach or Speedometer.
Rice is when you see a N/A Honda running around with three bright blue guages in an a-pillar pod that do nothing. Such as oil temp, tans temp, water temp. (I can see them being useful in certain situations, but not in that one)
I'm pretty much a walking encyclopedia for my car, just as you are for yours. I know what it can do, and I know I have some evidence for what I say. If you don't believe me then prove me wrong, but you do the work.
And of course he didn't do 7 seconds on a "stock" engine. Of course it used the same design of the engine itself it was highly modified. I dind't say he used a "stock" engine. That was just a curious inquiry.
Actually here is a thread about something in this very discussion we are having. It's proof that I know what I talk about, and you can mosey around onthe site as you wish to uncover more information about it.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newb...lt-7-bolt.html